As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases through my affiliate links. Bias tape usually comes folded in half with the raw edges tucked under towards the center fold. To achieve a smooth finish, I bound this curvy hem with self-bias binding. To hem unfold and pin the bias tape right sides together with the fabric. If you have ends to deal with, open them up and tuck the raw edges in and fold it up again along the creases. But for all of them you have to make sure that the part of the bias tape that stays underneath is caught in the stitching. One trick to get around this issue is hem curves with bias tape. Align the raw edge of the bias tape with the raw edge of your hem with right sides together. Stitch the bias tape to the hem along the crease of the fold. Now press the bias tape up. Discover (and save!) Bias tape on the other hand is a thin band of material which is cut “on the bias.” A bias simply means an angle of 45 degrees across the fabric. If it is and inside curve (like on the side of a shirt with a shirttail hem), when you fold the fabric up there isn’t enough to cover the curve, and for an outside curve (like a circle skirt) you end up with more fabric than the hemline when you fold up the raw edge. I also use bias tape on curved hems. Hem tape is a way of hemming your clothes without the use of needles and threads. Quilt Binding. If you’re having a hard time sewing bias tape on a curve, you can mark a … The secret to getting a clean finish on a curved hemline is bias tape! This technique works best on dress pants and on fabrics that don’t have a crease worn in at the hem. Use double bias tape to enclose the hem edge to remain as a visible feature. A straight-grain strip will not curve without kinks and warping. Fold hem allowance up and stitch around free edge of bias tape … Stitch bias tape along entire hem at 1/4″ seam allowance. Super Skinny Pants with Boy, Oh Boy, Oh Boy! 3. Shop for Bias Tape in Notions & Sewing Accessories. This will make sure raw edges of the bias tape are covered when you’re done. Copyright © 2021 Melly Sews on the Foodie Pro Theme. Jun 25, 2020 - In our post on sewing a proper muslin, I mentioned underlining a few times and want to revisit the subject today. I was taught this by my mother years ago… I guess I thought everyone knew how to do this. For this 1/2″ finished bias we need to cut strips 1″ wide. For this method of hemming you’ll need some single fold bias tape, either store bought or custom made. Understitch the shirt hem to the bias tape, 1/8″ away from the seam line. « Batman and Robin Costume DIY – with free pants pattern! Press bias tape down. The Granville puts a feminine spin on the tailoring of a traditional male shirt including details like curved shirt tails. ( Log Out /  This is very useful when sewing the tape in a basic curve. If an invisible hem would be more appropriate to your garment, slip stitch this upper edge in place. Press. If your project has top stitching and a top stitched hem will look appropriate, as is the case with this shirt, you can machine stitch close to  the upper edge of the bias. your own Pins on Pinterest Give up? Use your edgestitch foot if you have one – it helps you get consistent stitching at this step. By using bias tape to sew the hem, you can use that fabric that is typically turned to the back for the hem to get a little extra length in the legs. If you get neurotic like me, you can even pattern match when joining your strips. So what should you do? Since it is cut on the bias it can curve around edges extremely well. Love this!! There are two options with Bias tape: Turn the tape completely to the inside (so it doesn't show on the outside of the garment) Halve the tape so that it edges the hem and is a visible feature. Underlining fabric is often First, you’ll want single fold bias tape 1/2″ wide or less. I’ll show you how to finish armholes with bias tape, how to use bias tape on a neckline and also how to make a bias tape hem. In this tutorial youll learn how to sew single fold bias binding for armscye but the same principle works for any curved or straight edge. One trick to get around this issue is hem curves with bias tape. USING BIAS TAPE. Once you have the whole length pressed into neat little bias tape it’s time to apply it. I dare you to find the joint  on this finished bias binding! Make sure to cut the tape about 1″ longer than the hem you’re going to make. There are all kinds of widths available and those that make various folding arrangements. To finish up, I’ll show you some of the other things you can do with bias tape. LOL! Use your edgestitch foot if you have one – it helps you get consistent stitching at this step. Check the hem allowance on your pattern, and trim it down to equal half the width of your bias tape if needed. If you have a complete circle to hem, you’ll have to join the beginning to the end (that will have to wait for a different tutorial though). This is best for sheer fabrics like chiffon, organza or silk; Using tape to cover the hem on the wrong side of the fabric; Covering both sides along a raw edge with a bias strip; If necessary, stitch your strips together at the ends to create longer lengths. Your email address will not be published. Finishing Curved Hem with Bias Tape & Sewing Side Seams // Kalle Sewalong ... Today’s focus is on finishing an ultra curvy hem with bias tape. Check the hem allowance on your pattern, … Enter your email address to follow this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email. When you’re finished, the tape will hold a curve that matches the edge of the fabric. Excess fabric is trimmed out. Follow the instructions included with your sewing pattern for the construction of the shirt … Single fold bias is used to hem curved edges, for example on a circle skirt, and around neck lines. To hem, unfold and pin the bias tape right sides together with the fabric. Trim tails, press open and attach loose section of bias tape to hem between backstitches. There are all kinds of widths available and those that make various folding arrangements. Fold the bias tape to the wrong side of the fabric. It does give the hem a nice drape, and if it’s done in a contrasting color or print you can fold it over only once and have a pretty accent piece. Understitch the shirt hem to the bias tape, 1/8″ away from the seam line. Unfold one edge of the bias tape. Mar 13, 2019 - Finishing a curved hem with bias tape // Kalle Shirtdress pattern Sewalong via @closetcasepatt Single fold bias tape is essentially a long strip of fabric with both ends already folded under so that it is ready for use. Now press the entire bias tape and seam allowance to the inside of the garment so that it cannot be seen from the right side. Bias tape usually comes with two folds, as pictured above. There are two options with Bias tape: Turn the tape completely to the inside (so it doesn't show on the outside of the garment) - using single fold bias tape. I will be making the Granville shirt sometime in the near future, so great tip! In this post I’ll walk you through three ways. Pressing the bias tape to match the curve is such a good idea! Change ). Bias tape is perfect for a decorative finish on a curved edge because the bias will bend and ease around the curve. There are many ways to apply bias tape to finish a hem. It’s not strictly necessary to do this, as bias tape won’t unravel much even on a raw edge, but I like to do it anyway. Due to its flexibility and finished look, bias tape is often used in place of a hem at the edge of a piece of fabric. To do this, first go find yourself one of these handy dandy tools: Mine is a Dritz Quilting brand 1/2″ (12 mm) bias tape maker. With bias tape completely unfolded, sew together at pin. How to sew a curved hem - hem a curve with bias tape. Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Great little tutorial! In fact, once you understand the stuff, you will LOVE it! Overlap this folded edge with the end of the tape. See it now? USING BIAS TAPE. Because bias tape is cut on the bias, it can stretch around curves to lie flat. Fold the bias tape over, which will hide the seam created in Step 2. Press this seam allowance away from the hem edge. It can be made of contrasting or matching fabric. After you get started, try pinning the starting end down to your ironing board to keep it in place, then draw the bias maker down the length of the strip keeping your iron close to the folded strip coming out of the bias maker. October 16, 2014 by Melissa Mora 6 Comments. 23-jan-2016 - How to sew a curved hem – Hem curves with bias tape - Melly Sews The adhesive on the hem tape, which is has two sides, gives a strong bond that lasts even through repeated laundering. First, you’ll want single fold bias tape 1/2″ wide or less. It’s in the center of the second wide blue strip to the left of the right hand seam. Required fields are marked *. Follow the directions on the package for cutting your fabric at a 45 degree angle in long strips. Adjust the bias tape on the wrong side so that it covers the stitching from step 4 and pin in place. My mother couldn’t see a button on. You can read all about my two Granvilles over on The Monthly Stitch blog but here I’d like to share with you how I finished that curved hem of my linen striped version. The same method used for adding a bias tape facing can pretty much be used for any type of curved hem as well. Change ), You are commenting using your Twitter account. I find it helpful to press from the wrong side, then the right side. Melissa Mora is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com. Bias is used in many quilting techniques and sewing projects. In fact, it's something that I have used from the very beginning of my sewing adventure...and is not something to be feared. Heather Handmade shows how you can lengthen pants using a bias tape hem. Once you get it started, you’ll have to hold the first inch or so in place while you press it. Single Fold Bias Tape. Vogue Fabrics stocks most Wrights packaged bias tapes, rick rack, piping, hem facing. Bias binding is when bias tape is used to enclose the raw edge of a neckline, armhole, or hem. Now if you haven’t already done so, hop over to the Monthly Stitch and check out the rest of this linen shirt and take a gander at all the lovely indie sewing that’s been going on. We also carry a wide range of these types of products by the yard or the roll from other suppliers. Sorry I forgot to photograph this step until I’d finished stitching the seam so the more keen observer may notice that the seam has already been stitched even though the fabric is still on the machine bed since I put it back on to snap a pic. Bias tape is commonly used in armholes, necklines, straps, or ties in both clothing and bags. (Where did you get this fabric – your usual local Joann’s?!). You fold once and use very close zig-zag stitches (buttonhole kind of stitch) to cover the fold. If you’re sewing the regular shirt, you’ll still have a little bit extra hanging off the placket after you’ve understitched. However, my old tutorial showing you about bias tape and cutting on the bias, is well, really old. There are also a few methods to sew bias strips. To hem unfold and pin the bias tape right sides together with the fabric. At the beginning of the tape fold it up about 1/2″. I tried a few different finishing methods when this pattern was in development, and ultimately bias tape gave the neatest finish. Use matching thread if you do not wish for the stitches to be noticeable. It can be tricky to sew a curved hem. Using the sewing machine, top stitch around the top edge of the bias tape to finish the hem. #toomanygirlsinhere. In this case, the bias tape fabric is seen. 03.09.2019 - Stricken How to sew a curved hem - Hem curves with bias tape, #Bias #curved #curves #Hem #Sew #Stricken #strickenbaby #tape So here’s how you do it. ( Log Out /  – Blank Slate Sewing Team ». Stitch in the crease line closest to the raw edge. Change ), You are commenting using your Google account. As you may know, hemming a curved edge, especially one that undulates up and down and up and down again without undue puckering can be a tedious task if you try to simply press up twice and stitch. Your email address will not be published. Bias Tape is a wonderful thing. 3. Change ), You are commenting using your Facebook account. Maybe I went a little overboard with pattern matching this shirt? Bias tapes are cut on the bias so they are a little stretchy which is good for sewing curved hems. Buy products such as Wrights 1/2" Double Fold White Bias Tape, 3 Yd. Narrow zig-zag hem, similar to serging. Give it one more good press and you have a beautiful pucker-free curved hem. Ease the bias into the curve and pin in place as needed. To achieve a smooth finish, I bound this curvy hem with self-bias binding. And bags fact, once you understand the stuff, you press the bias in! Sew together at pin foot if you get this fabric – your local. 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